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How do/did you study Month 2?

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Post by ernestosim01 June 8th 2013, 9:01 am

I'm stuck at Month 2 after reading the first 3 annotated games last Month. There are a lot of materials to study this month which overwhelms me Sad

For those who are done or are currently on Month 2, I got a question for you: How did/do you take the lessons?

Say, in each session do you:
1. Study in linear fashion? From page 1 (Annotated Games) to last page (Opening)? As it was arranged in the module.

or

2. Study bits of everything? An annotated game, then the Visualization, then some theory, then if you still have time, one opening variation?

Suggestions are highly appreciated.

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Post by PawnCustodian June 8th 2013, 10:09 am

Month 2 is a killer - all those game collections on the various centre formations are meant to be skimmed, just carefully study the model games.

My preference was to make a schedule and spread things out over the month.

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Post by ernestosim01 June 8th 2013, 10:46 am

PC,
How did you specifically organize your study for m2?

Thanks!

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Post by PawnCustodian June 8th 2013, 11:17 am

Visualization needs to be spread out, a couple of minutes each day.

The games on the centre, I progressed through each type sequentually, slightly more than one set each week.

The annotated games, two/week.

King Safety, theory and videos first, then the exercises the last week of the month.

I also did the opening module which I set aside one day/week.

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Post by ernestosim01 June 8th 2013, 11:22 am

I'll try to follow that path. Thanks.


Last edited by ernestosim01 on June 8th 2013, 11:22 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : missing word)

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Post by PawnCustodian June 8th 2013, 11:45 am

Good luck!

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Post by Leavenfish June 8th 2013, 10:23 pm

I honestly found Mo 2 (and more so, Mo 3) fairly useless for me - that's why I never went to month 4. Mo 1 was actually interesting at least. I pretty much picked a little here, a little there for Mo .

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Post by ernestosim01 June 9th 2013, 5:40 am

Well the reason might be pretty obvious: you already have the skill set that ICS course promises to provide.

If I were you, and I still can afford the course, I would still go until month 13. Who knows, you might get the master title after all.

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Post by PawnCustodian June 9th 2013, 7:54 am

ernestosim01 wrote: I would still go until month 13. Who knows, you might get the master title after all.

The best stuff is months 9-13 - the exercises are the most effective and instructional I've seen anywhere. If ICS were to add another year of only that type of material I'd sign up in a microsecond!

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Post by ernestosim01 June 9th 2013, 8:27 am

I agree. The first half of the course is designed as preparatory to the main lesson. It may appear boring to some advanced player, but necessary nonetheless.

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Post by Leavenfish June 9th 2013, 9:53 pm

ernestosim01 wrote:I agree. The first half of the course is designed as preparatory to the main lesson. It may appear boring to some advanced player, but necessary nonetheless.


I had suggested starting at say month 6, but they would not let me - apparently it is not possible.

Earlier this year a local player - slightly over 2400 USCF that I've known for years (we roomed for a year in college) said that he felt all I really needed to do was 'play more' and in doing so, force myself into somewhat uncomfortable situations, a bit messy if you will, and that my 25+ year of experience combined with playing a lot, would allow my play to go to a new level. I have only played 2 - 3 small tourneys each year for about the past 15 yrs. No expensive courses, no coaches....but that is only because I have been 2000+ for the past 15 or more years.

That may be true (and I am at 4 tourneys for the year so far) so I am giving it a go. He recommended 96 tournament games a year for me. That's more tournaments than I can go to so he suggested maybe half that amount but to play more ICC games, 3/1 or 5/0 or so and really try hard to trust my instincts, look for material imbalances and test myself. Forget about results because initially they may not be what you hope for...but eventually you will find all those things that seemed so 'difficult', to be not be so difficult anymore...then you progress.

A favorite saying of 'life coaches' and 'self help' people is that progress only comes from stretching yourself beyond your limits - one guys I saw (who was hawking his new book where I work) recounted how he received a severe injury in his first years practice in the NFL...paralyzed him for some time. He mentions how he and therapists would bend his foot back past where was comfortable...and that is the analogy he used for progressing in your chosen profession. I would way it is essentially what my 2400 friend was suggesting: once you have obtained a certain level of competence - continue to push yourself. To some degree you can do that by studying books, taking courses like these...but you HAVE to put it into practice, to the point that it hurts.

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Post by PawnCustodian June 10th 2013, 8:44 am

Great practial advice.

Take a look at the top player games in the database for 2012 -
Carlsen - 131
Karjakin - 201
Aronian - 142

I don't get nearly that opportunity to play and went into correspondence chess instead of OTB. In my query to the ICS about using a computer to fill the void playing I received these recommendations last year:

"We do not have specific recommendations for online playing or against the computer.
However, we can say that:
- More than 30 minutes for online blitz (5/0) is not good (in no more than 3 sessions per week).
- When you play blitz on the computer, it is advisable to set a 3D board if possible instead of the normal 2D board.
- When you play against the computer, try to use a real board to move the pieces and not the screen."

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Post by Victorian Gent June 11th 2013, 4:14 am

Smirnov definitely advises that you SHOULD use the computer to play training games. They should be long time control and not blitz. You should play under conditions close to tournament ones. You should set the computer to a high level...expect to lose almost every time. Then analyse each game properly st away.
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Post by BorgQueen June 12th 2013, 7:58 pm

I studied the material as presented.  I skimmed nothing.

Still didn't help.  Last Tuesday, I lost due to a tactical oversight, which is how I lose most of my games.
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Post by SirNemo June 13th 2013, 12:59 am

BorgQueen: Aren't you decently rated though? Neutral Sorry you lost your game

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Post by BorgQueen June 13th 2013, 1:21 am

Actually I think my rating is still below what it should be... 

I surprise quite a few people as they don't expect someone rated around 1700 ACF to be much of a challenge for them.

Problem for me is when I am playing rated games, I get nervous and usually stuff the game up by missing something obvious.
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Post by SirNemo June 13th 2013, 12:30 pm

That's unfortunate :[ I had that same issue 5-6 years ago in the two previous rated tournaments I played in. I would let my nerves get the best of me and would wind up blundering away piece after piece. I think my main problem was that I was mostly studying with a computer and looking at a 2D board is much different than looking at a real board in front of you. 

Since I started playing chess again (early May of this year), I've been using the real board for almost all of my studies aside from tactics with CT-ART. I'm not sure if you study with a real board or not, but I know it's helped me tremendously.

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Post by PawnCustodian June 13th 2013, 2:15 pm

One of the surprises from my recent switch to the Chess Position Trainer for opening study is that it has a pretty decent dgt board interface.

I started training with the dgt board about two weeks ago and am finding it is a quick way to learn the various lines. Unfortunatly, it's not really functional for random positon recall, but it does provide that balance between board and screen.

One other interesting observation is that when I drill complete lines I score about 90% or better, however, when served random positions 80% or less.

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Post by SirNemo June 13th 2013, 2:18 pm

Ah yes. I use CPT as well. Such a handy little tool to help me with my openings. However, I can't afford a DGT board at the moment. Lucky you!

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Post by PawnCustodian June 13th 2013, 2:56 pm

It was part of my retirement plan for years...

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Post by SirNemo June 13th 2013, 3:37 pm

I'm not quite ready for retirement yet, but i'm sure i'll have something similar lined up for my plans Razz

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Post by BorgQueen June 13th 2013, 10:38 pm

I really don't think it's the 2d / real board thing.   I seem to do quite ok when the games are unrated.  

Last week I won the blitz at my club, drawing with one 2200 rated player (all ACF) and defeating another 2200 rated player.

Even better, after the tourney, one of the 2200 rated players wanted revenge, so we played another 5 blitz games and I won them all ^_^
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Post by PawnCustodian June 14th 2013, 7:38 am

Congratulations, a very impressive performance!

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Post by SirNemo June 14th 2013, 10:52 am

BorgQueen: Very solid performance indeed! Now if only we can work out a way to get rid of those 'rated game jitters' :]

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Post by ernestosim01 June 14th 2013, 10:57 am

How about shunning coffee:D

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